Domaine Robert Chevillon 2007 ex-ship

notes by Randall Pollard

Year in, year out, even in minor vintages such as 1981 and 1984 (2007 is far better!), the wines are worth buying. They have finesse and a concentration and a distinct individuality, climat from climat, which is rare in the commune. They are poised and rich and harmonious. They last well. How does he do it?" -Clive Coates "Cote d'Or".

“There is no bigger name in the village than that of Robert Chevillon, who is nearly universally recognized as the finest producer in Nuits St. Georges today… Robert has systematically handed over the reigns of the domaine to his two sons over the last decade, and it is now brothers Bertrand and Denis Chevillon who greet visitors and conduct tastings of the new vintage. Bertrand’s first vintage was the 1988, and his brother joined the family team in the cellar a few years later." -John Gilman.

 

Even when one is well-aware of this Domaine Chevillon’s lofty and well-entrenched reputation, the wines still regularly offer up very pleasant surprises. For example, I recently drank a 1990 Nuits St. Georges Villages that could have, quite easily, masqueraded as very good Premier Cru. It displayed an impressive richness, opulence and balance; and still possessed formidable ageing potential. I have much joy from the Chevillon 1997s and 1998s-two very challenging vintages that highlight the best producers- and more recently, the perfumed, pure and plush 2000s (which Bertrand likens to his 2007s). This domaine is certainly as reliable as they come! The Chevillon family’s dedication and relentless quest for quality and honesty in the production of their wines means every vintage, they show great typicity (exemplifying the differences between sites very well) and offer fantastic value for money.

 

What do Chevillon do that’s different to other domaines? The answer to this question lies in the following words from Robert Chevillon:

"Why saignée when the fruit is concentrated in the first place? Why cold-macerate when we get good extraction with a warm ferment, and why swamp good fruit with too much new oak?"

But the answer is also in the following words: hard work, great sites, old vines, hard work, modest yields, and more hard work! So it’s simply the diligence, understanding, great skill attention to detail and vineyard sites that elevate Chevillon from the rest of the producers in Nuits; as there are no fancy tricks with the winemaking.

Most of the fruit is de-stemmed, although up to 30% stems are retained. There is a short pre-fermentation maceration and the fermentations are allowed to reach low-mid 30C’s. There may be a brief post-fermentation maceration for extra tannin if required. The Villages wine is matured in 1, 2 and 3 year-old oak whilst the Premier Crus mature in up to 30% new oak. So, there is nothing unusual or controversial about the general process. However the results are almost always astonishing!

2007 Nuits St. Georges Vieilles Vignes [$89] Offer Price $76
This is from 50yo vines in 4 parcels, totalling 3ha (quite a large Villages holding). Vigneron, Bertrand Chevillon stated that he felt it is very fruity, a real surprise, and similar to the 2000 vintage. My impression at the time, with all the wines, was that they were better than the 2000.

This wine is soft, flesh and fruity; albeit with gentle mouth-coating tannins that caress rather than grip. There is a hauntingly beautiful impression of ethereal perfume and drinkability in this wine, but, it will no doubt live on for 10+ years.

“A mix of red and blue pinot fruit is nuanced by touches of earth, underbrush and a smoky hint that is also reflected by the round and notably richer medium-bodied flavors that are more concentrated, delicious and serious while culminating in a solidly long finish. A good if not truly distinguished villages. 86-89 points” Burghound, Jan 2009

2007 Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru ‘Les Busselots’ [$118] Offer Price $100

2007 Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru ‘Les Chaignots’ [$118] Offer Price $100

I have grouped these two vineyards together as they are adjacent, and both at the northern end of the Nuits St. Georges commune (the town of Nuits St. Georges splits the commune in two), near the Vosne Romanée border. As such, it’s not surprising that these two have a certain “Vosne-ness”, represented by more floral (rose petal) perfume, and more red fruits rather than plum and cassis notes. They also have less dark chocolate, graphite and earthy notes than their more southern stable-mates.

Bertrand describes these two (along with Les Cailles) as his more “feminine styles”. They are not inferior, nor indeed, earlier maturing, but more seductive as young wines and a little softer and fleshier in structure.

Both wines are made from 45yo vines and show the impressive structural and fruit integrity of Chez Chevillon.

Les Busselots: “Here the nose is a big step up in refinement and elegance as the pure, even airy nose features aromas of red and blue pinot fruit nuanced by discreet spice and earth hints that transfer to the supple, round and utterly delicious flavours that enjoy notably more dry extract that buffers the relatively fine tannins. A Nuits of finesse, indeed at present this is almost delicate. 89-91 points.” Burghound, Jan 2009

Les Chagnots: “A subtle touch of wood frames attractive red berry fruit that itself is cut with anise and clove that lends a touch of elegance and refinement to the cool and equally refined middle weight flavors that possess a velvety, even silky texture on the persistent finish. This is understated but there is no lack of character and the Vosne-side influence shows. 88-91 points.” Burghound, Jan 2009

2007 Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru ‘Les Roncieres’ [$118] Offer Price $100

2007 Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru ‘Perrieres’ [$135] Offer Price $115

Almost at the southern border of Nuits St. Georges proper [the wines from the commune of Premeaux immediately south of Nuits St Georges also have the right to be called Nuits St. Georges, these two vineyards are the most feminine of the five southern Chevillon sites. Especially in a pure, expressive and seductive vintage like 2007, these two sites offer up a lavish array of red fruits, cassis and some classic spice and earthy Nuits notes.

Les Roncieres: “By contrast, this is less elegant but more complex, both on the slightly gamy red and blue berry fruit nose and the savory, intense, textured and more obviously muscled flavors that culminate in a firmly structured and mouth coating finish. This is much more obviously Nuits in character than any of the preceding wines but the extract, concentration and depth of material is impressive. 90-92 points. Outstanding. Sweet spot.” Burghound, Jan 2009.

Les Perrieres: “A more reserved nose of wild red fruit includes raspberry and cherry together with touches of earth, spice and an interesting stony note that complements the more obviously mineral-inflected flavors that are delicious yet serious, all wrapped in a textured and long finish supported by very fine tannins. This is beautifully balanced and should age very well. 89-92 points. Outstanding.” Burghound, Jan 2009

2007 Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru ‘Les Pruliers’ [$135] Offer Price $115
SOLD OUT

2007 Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru ‘Les Cailles’ [$159] Offer Price $135

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2007 Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru ‘Les Vaucrains’ [$159] Offer Price $135

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2007 Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru ‘Les St. Georges’ [$185] Offer Price $157

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These are the more structured or powerful Chevillon reds, with the exception of Les Cailles (that has deeper soil on a flatter site) that Bertrand fits into his more “feminine” style range. They exhibit more plum and cassis with more Nuits graphite and mineral / earthy notes, along with more backbone. The last three are from 80yo vines, and the Prulieres, which is always quite structured and has more extract than Perrieres or Roncieres, is from 50+yo vines.

Given the weight and concentration of Les St. Georges, it’s a compliment to Les Vaucrains that Bertrand always offers this last. 2007 Les Vaucrains is no exception with the most extract and structure of the whole group.

All in all, this is a most impressive range of wines, and during two barrel tastings last year, I found myself constantly thinking that I wanted to take these wines home to drink that night! This is not to say they won’t age, because they certainly will, but they are utterly enthralling and impressive Burgundies.

Les Prulieres: “A distinctly animale note characterizes the more deeply pitched nose that is very Nuits in character with pungent earth notes suffusing the red and blue pinot fruit aromas that introduce rich, full and seductive medium plus weight flavours as the dry extract confers a velvety quality to the wonderfully complex finish that delivers outstanding length. The rounded tannins are moderately firm and this will require 8 to 10 years in the cellar first before it will really blossom. Highly recommended. Sweet spot. Outstanding. 91-93 points.” Burghound, Jan 2009

Les Cailles: “The most complex nose of any wine to this point with notes of game, smoke, damp earth, red and blue berry fruit and touches of underbrush and a trace of blackberry liqueur that complements well the wonderfully layered, concentrated and palate staining flavors blessed with excellent richness and plenty of extract on the lingering and mouth coating finish. As always, this is terrific though for the first time in a long time, it is not obviously superior to the Prulieres though it's finer. Sweet spot. Outstanding. 91-93.” Burghound, Jan 2009

Les St. Georges: “A completely different nose that is more red fruit driven and less overtly spicy yet every bit as complex as the aromas merge seamlessly into the rich, full and classy flavors that are marvelously pure, elegant and taut before culminating in a delicious, serious, dense and powerful finish that really stains the palate with extract. A stunningly good Les St. Georges and absolutely recommended. Sweet spot. Outstanding. 91-94 points.” Burghound, Jan 2009

Les Vaucrains: “This is equally pure though less elegant and much more sauvage in character with much more deeply pitched earthy and gamy dark berry fruit aromas that precede the rich, sweet and vibrant flavours that culminate with good detail and a focused finish that exudes controlled power. This possesses excellent potential and this is a bit finer than it usually is with dense but fine tannins and a touch of backend wood. One rarely hears finesse and Vaucrains in the same sentence but this is one such exception. Sweet spot. Outstanding. 91-93.” Burghound, Jan 2009