2009 Fontaine-Gagnard

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard has some of the finest and most impressive vineyard holdings within Chassagne-Montrachet including parcels of Batard-Montrachet, Criots-Batard-Montrachet and Montrachet. The domaine is without doubt one of the most important producers in the region, producing a superb array of wines from the incredible value Bourgogne blanc and rouge through to Grand Cru, with an impressive number of premier cru's.

 

From its origins in the extensive Gagnard-Delagrange holdings, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard was born out of the marriage of Richard Fontaine to Jacques Gagnard's eldest daughter, Laurence in 1982.

 

Upon my visit early this year most of the 2009 Fontaines had sold out, such is the international "hunger" for this vintage. Although it's a very sought after and great red vintage, the whites, although more variable, should not be overlooked. I had a distinct feeling, after tasting 15 Fontaine 2009 whites from bottle, that the Fontaines had a great success, compared to other domaines, especially higher up the ranks. There is ample anecdotal and press comments to support this view.

 

According to "straight-shooters" Richard and daughter Celine, the fruit was clean and ripe, between 12.5 and 13.5% potential alcohol, almost perfect. The acidity, ripeness and taste of the young wines reminded Richard of the 2002's, which by the way, are stunning wines that have always drank exceptionally well.

 

Not to be overlooked this vintage, are the two 1er Cru reds that are stunning. You will also note that the exchange rate is working in our favour, and these wines have never been so cheap!

 

Cheers, Randall Pollard.

 

2009 Bourgogne Blanc
Offer Price $49.35
A fresh, ripe and reasonably pretty nose of mostly yellow orchard fruit and floral hints leads to nicely detailed and actually racy middle weight flavors that possess good persistence on the delicious finish. Fontaine seems to always do well with his Bourgogne and 2009 is no exception. 86 Points, BURGHOUND, Feb 2011

 

2009 Chassagne-Montrachet
Offer Price $74.55
This wine is labelled either as V.V. (old vines) or not; either way it is the same wine from mostly 60yo vines. It shows ample concentration, lovely balance and lovely, hay, citrus and doughy nuances. The acidity is balanced and the finish is impressive for a villages wine. RANDALL POLLARD

 

Very mild reduction does not materially impinge on the resin and yellow orchard fruit suffused aromas that give way to rich, round and nicely voluminous middle weight flavors that possess plenty of energy on the sappy if not especially refined finale. 88 Points, BURGHOUND, Feb 2011

 

2009 Chassagne-Montrachet 1­er Cru ‘Vergers’
Offer Price $93.45
The word Vergers always reminds me of standing in the vineyard looking down to nearby Grand Cru Montrachet. The wines of Vergers, with its 50cm of red soil and underlying rock is, according to Celine, always the last to ripen and always has the highest acidity. However, it often shows beautiful ripeness reminiscent of the Grand Crus. This vintage shows great power and tension, with nice mineral notes.  RANDALL POLLARD

 

This is the first wine to display any appreciable wood influence and even here it is discreet. There is a hint of reduction to the ripe yellow orchard fruit and flower aromas that introduce rich, full-bodied and mouth coating flavors that tighten up on the dry, clean and crisp finish. Lovely juice that is worth your attention. Outstanding. 91 Points, BURGHOUND, Feb 2011

 

2009 Chassagne-Montrachet 1­er Cru ‘Boudriotte’
Offer Price $93.45
This seems to be showing more firmness than the Vergers and according to the Fontaine’s it is more “masculine”, needing more time. Boudriotte (which can also be called Morgeot) usually shows more acidity than “normal” Morgeot and it is a lovely contrast to the slightly riper Vergers. RANDALL POLLARD

 

There is enough reduction present to knock down the expressiveness of the white flower, resin and peach infused nose. There is lovely richness to the round, supple and delicious middle weight flavors though the acid spine is firm and serves to tighten up the relatively dry and punchy finish. Lovely. 90 Points, BURGHOUND, Feb 2011

 

2009 Chassagne-Montrachet 1­er Cru ‘Les Caillerets’
Offer Price $112.35
This has a beautifully complex reductive (doughy, mealy, cured meat) nose allied with ripe, really intense fruit that is not too flamboyant. The palate is almost perfectly balanced, quite rich but with lovely acidity. RANDALL POLLARD

 

A gorgeous nose of white flowers, citrus rind and pungent mineral notes that can also be found on the rich, precise and energetic middle weight flavors that culminate in a relatively dry, linear and focused finish that display real drive. This is an entirely admirable and ageworthy Caillerets that is worth a look. Outstanding. 92 Points, BURGHOUND, Feb 2011

 

2009 Chassagne-Montrachet 1­er Cru ‘La Romanee’
Offer Price $117.60
The 2009 La Romanée sings! It has less “struck match” and complex reduction than the Caillerets, but slightly more power, strength and length. As usually expected there is a lot of mineral flavours and great backbone. RANDALL POLLARD

 

Moderate reduction diminishes the attractiveness of the overtly exotic and spicy white and yellow fruit aromas that give way to silky, pure, detailed and seductively textured flavors that possess plenty of volume on the expansive, highly complex and balanced finish. This striking effort should age well over the medium-term and while it does not have the power, weight and size of the Criots, it possesses similar complexity. Outstanding. 93 Points, BURGHOUND, Feb 2011

 

2009 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Offer Price $252
This is the more “feminine” Grand Cru according to the Fontaine’s. It is usually riper than the Batard, e.g., in 2009 it was picked at 13.5 whereas Batard was 13.2. There is the barest hint of tropical fruit and lovely structure, texture and acidity to match. This is really classy. RANDALL POLLARD

 

A very ripe and mildly exotic nose features aromas of mango, peach, papaya and spiced pear that even a mild touch of reduction cannot suppress. The rich, suave, powerful and succulent big-bodied flavors exude an overt muscularity yet there is nothing ponderous or unduly heavy about the hugely long finish. This is an impressive, even imposing wine yet as good as it is, it can't quite muster the overall sense of harmony and complexity of its two grand cru siblings. 93 Points, BURGHOUND, Feb 2011

 

2009 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Offer Price $252
Very classy, perfectly ripe fruit, savoury nuances, beautiful texture. Clean with a beautiful, tantalising long finish due to a perfect fusion of acidity, texture, flavour and alcohol. RANDALL POLLARD

 

One more time there is very mild reduction present though not enough to significantly undermine the attractiveness of the mostly yellow orchard fruit, spice, flower and lightly mineral-infused nose. There is excellent size, richness and weight to the powerful, dense and mouth coating broad-shouldered flavors that brim with extract that buffers the complex, highly persistent and notably finer finish. This balanced and classically styled Bâtard should reward 7 to 10 years of upside development. Don’t miss! 94 Points, BURGHOUND, Feb 2011

 

2009 Le Montrachet Grand Cru
Offer Price $614.25

Richard spotted my smile as I sniffed this wine, (and knowing my leanings towards reductive character) without a word said, "oui, bon reduction!". It has the kind of amalgam of fruit, intensity and reductive character that only comes from perfect fruit. This is great wine with hidden power, poise and incredible complexity. RANDALL POLLARD

 

This ever-so-mildly reduced Montrachet is notably more elegant than either of its two grand cru stable mates though also much more aromatically restrained with a reluctant yet beautiful nose of white flower, spiced pear, peach and discreet minerality. The opulent and broad-scaled flavors possess terrific mid-palate concentration that coats the palate with a fine layer of dry extract that buffers well the firm acidity on the explosive, powerful and hugely long finish. A "wow' wine! Don't miss! 96 Points, BURGHOUND, Feb 2011

 

2009 Bourgogne Rouge
Offer Price $36.99
The Bourgogne rouge bottling from Fontaine-Gagnard hails from parcels located in the villages of Volnay and Chassagne. The 2009 is a very pretty wine that offers up scents of cherries, pomegranate, woodsmoke and soil. On the palate the wine is medium-full, deep and juicy, with nice transparency, very modest tannins and good length and grip on the very fresh finish. Good juice. 2011-2020. JOHN GILMAN, View From the Cellar, Sept-Oct 2011.

 

2009 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Clos du Chenes’
Offer Price $109 | $102.50 in straight dozens
Richard Fontaine’s Clos des Chênes is a superb example of the 2009 vintage. The deep and classy nose offers up a complex and very red fruity mix of cherries, blood orange, woodsmoke, gamebirds, lovely soil tones and a bit of citrus peel in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and nicely structured, with a fien core of fruit, ripe tannins, good acids and fine length and grip on the focused and youthful finish. Good juice that will need five or six years to blossom. . JOHN GILMAN, View From the Cellar, Sept-Oct 2011.

 

2009 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Rugiens’
Offer Price $109 | $102.50 in straight dozens
The 2009 Rugiens chez Fontaine is yet again another outstanding example of the vintage. The beautifully pure and refined nose offers up scents of cherries, pomegranate, great minerality, orange zest, woodsmoke, gamebirds and fresh herbs in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very, very transparent, with a sappy core of fruit, fairly suave, ripe tannins, great focus and a very long, youthful and tangy finish. Just a beautiful bottle of young and refined Pommard in the making. 2018-2050. JOHN GILMAN, View From the Cellar, Sept-Oct 2011.