Domaine Gros F.&S. 2007

Bernard Gros’ winemaking is geared towards age worthy wines that are deeply coloured, very concentrated and never filtered. He produces plush, ripe, seductive, opulent reds that always over-deliver in quality.

Domaine Gros F & S domaine has an impressive array of holdings in four grand Crus – Clos Vougeot, Echezeaux, Grands-Echezeaux and Richebourg, one great Premier Cru, a well situated Vosne “villages” sites and to enhance all of that there are the great value wines from the Haut Cotes de Nuits, grown about 2km up the slopes from Vosne Romanée.

About 25 years ago, Bernard took a leap of faith and decided to re-plant most of his domaine’s vines. His precious vineyards now repay him with powerful wines that really do impress. Not only are they full, complex and enthralling, but I have had many great experiences with Bernard Gros’ wines, and have, many times, been amazed by their quality, ageability and consistency, even in lesser vintages.

The 2007’s are (as one would expect from Bernard Gros) plush and seductive, but also eloquently convey the typical characteristics the 07 vintage – purity, delicate acidity and freshness. Bernard says that they are “easy wines to drink young because they are well-rounded, but they are still powerful.” The Hautes Cotes de Nuits can be kept for up to 10 years, the Vosne Romanée for 20 years, and the others for over 20 years. He feels that they are “stronger” than his 2000’s [which were superb!] and weigh in at just over 13% alcohol.

RANDALL POLLARD

 

The Wines:

 

GROS F&S Vosne-Romanée $115 

In recent times Bernard has moved to 100% new oak for this cuvee as he feels the wine can carry it. It is certainly rich and concentrated with aromas of undergrowth / dry twigs, sweet Asian spice, cassis, strawberry and hints of coffee. Flavours are similar, with very satisfying balance and softness with enough weight and embedded tannin structure for ageing. Even Bernard’s 1970 Vosne Romanée (a much weaker vintage than 2007) was drinking very well after 20 years!

“Not surprisingly, this is a good deal more elegant with pretty and spicy red pinot fruit that is less obviously ripe than its '06 counterpart that is followed by detailed, precise and moderately austere lightly mineral-infused flavors, all wrapped in a persistent and intense finish. 86-89 points.” BURGHOUND, Jan 2009.

 

GROS F&S Clos de Vougeot 'Musigni' $239

 

(From a 1.5 ha parcel that was replanted sequentially – in 1985, 1988 and 1989; the wine carries the ancient name of Musigni because it comes from a parcel of vines at the top of Clos Vougeot, directly across from the vineyard of Musigny). This is very concentrated with ripe complex aromas and flavours. A little more Asian spice and hoisin nuances than 2006, but there is plenty of underlying red and black fruit character to swamp the 100% new toasted oak, even today! It also has the beguiling and complex forest floor nuances and masses of black fruit flavour. This is quite a full and solid wine, and as you would expect, it shows Vosne-like characteristics but is just a little more tannic in structure.

“This too has ample wood spice that highlights the seductive and more evidently ripe red fruit nose that also offers up a hint of animale that can also be found on the rich, full-bodied and supple flavors that are impressively powerful, all wrapped in a vibrant and driving finish. Very solid quality here in a mildly woody style. 89-92 points.” BURGHOUND, Jan 2009

 

GROS F&S Echezeaux $219

 

Bernard now owns 2 ha of this vineyard so is a significant player. As you would probably expect, this is more elegant than the Clos Vougeot with a little more grip than the villages Vosne Romanée and also more length. It has soaked up the oak very well and is now well formed with pleasing and seductive, ethereal, Vosne-like aromatics and a plush, generous and complex palate. This is an amazing value Grand Cru!

“A generously wooded nose frames similar aromas though here there is a bit more earth and underbrush nuances in evidence that introduce seductive and velvety flavors that carry a bit more overall depth without losing any of the precision. I like the complexity and length and this should require 6 to 8 years of cellar time before realizing its full potential. 88-91 points.” BURGHOUND, Jan 2009.

 

 

GROS F&S Grands-Echézeaux $398

(From a .3 ha parcel replanted in 1985). There is only a couple of cases of this wine for Australia but it is worth the hunt! It is firmer again and more about texture than the Echezeaux. Clearly Grand Cru but also with more “baby fat” and length than the previous wines.

“A much more reticent and strained nose and while there is ample wood present here as well, it's better integrated at this early stage and allows the red and black pinot fruit and earth aromas to shine. The precise and minerally broad-shouldered flavors are supported by a firmly structured tannic spine and good underlying material. This is balanced and admirably long and should reward 7 to 10 years of cellar time. 90-92 points.” BURGHOUND, Jan 2009

 

 

GROS F&S Richebourg $590

(From a .7 ha parcel that was partially replanted in 1985 and the remainder in 1989). Along with only 7 or so other Grand Crus in Burgundy, this is the pinnacle of pinot noir in the World. The vineyard produces a very opulent style of Grand Cru, and this is a producer who favours an opulent style! It is so opulent in fact, that the 100% new oak seems to have been completely “swallowed” by wine. Elegance, opulence and poise are the first three words to come to mind.

“This is also quite cool and reserved in character with ample Asian spice notes and with reasonably well-integrated wood influence too on the mostly red fruit nose. The medium-bodied flavors possess fine intensity with nuances of jerky, currant, iron and underbrush, all wrapped in a finish that has the same coolness as the nose plus a lingering backend perfume. In sum, this is very good to excellent if not better. 90-93 Points BURGHOUND, Jan 2009