Domaine Gros F.&S. 2009
he Gros family has been producing wines in Vosne-Romanee for over 160 years, in 1963 the original domaine was split resulting in the creation of Domaine Gros Frere et Soeur. It is now run by the charismatic Bernard Gros, who produces wines noted for their age-wortly qualities and rich, opulent and giving style.
Domaine Gros F&S has an impressive array of holdings in four grand cru vineyards - Clos Vougeot, Echezeaux, Grands-Echezeaux and Richebourg, from which Bernard produces four impressive, seductive and extremely pretty wines.
The 2009 Gros F & S wines, according to Bernard Gros, were made from almost perfect grapes that achieved a minimum of 13% ripeness. The wines from this exciting estate are always in a generous, full aromatic and flavorsome style. Bernard likes generosity in his wines.
According to Gros, the 2009’s are “correct for now”, meaning that these “cellaring wines” need time, but are showing the concentration and plump ripeness of the vintage. Yet they are not overly “sweet” nor fat; the tannins are ripe, balanced and interwoven beautifully through the length of the wines.
These 09’s are without doubt a collection of some of his best wines to date, on my recent trip to Burgundy I observed the 2009’s are probably equal to the best I have ever tasted from this domaine. The wines show structure and longevity beautifully combined with a perfumed, almost sweet, supple and delicious character that will be sure to please both those who like their Burgundies young and those with the willpower to hold on to them for many years.
I wasn't able to get as many 2009's as I wanted due to the quality of both the wines and the vintage. RANDALL POLLARD
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The Wines:
GROS F&S Hautes Cotes du Nuits
Shelf Price $55 | Offer Price $48
This is dark, and aromatically sweet, with a floral notes, ripe Kirsch-soaked cherries and some underbrush. The palate is full, ripe and rich for a pinot, and it shows some potential to age for 5+ years in great cellaring conditions. Customers who buy this wine year in - year out will know it always over-delivers on value. It comes from estate vineyards, planted about 2km from Vosne Romanee up in the hills at Concours. This is aged in 100% one year old oak. On the same day that the wines below (all aged in 100% new oak) are bottled, the same barrels are rinsed and re-filled straight away with this wine, a simple but effective formula.
Burghound says “sweet spot” and “outstanding”! RANDALL POLLARD.
GROS F&S Vosne-Romanée
Shelf Price $93 | Offer Price $75 | $69 Straight Dozens
The Gros wines are always a little oaky when young (as all from villages upwards are aged in 100% new oak ) and should all be aged for at least a few years to let this oak melt into the generous fruit and substantial framework of the wines. So even though this ambitious villages level wine shows a little new oak now, don’t worry, it will disappear well before the wine glides on to its 5th birthday. This wine has a “fresher” acidity than the wine above, and also more red fruits (namely strawberries and raspberries). It is highly recommended. RANDALL POLLARD.
GROS F&S Clos de Vougeot 'Musigni'
Shelf Price $229 | Offer Price $178
From a 1.5 parcel that lies between the Chateau entrance driveway and the top wall separating the Clos from the grand cru of Musigny. This is a beautiful site with most vines now around the 25yo mark. This wine is more closed, at the moment, than the Echezeaux. Of course I often describe Clos Vougeot as Vosne Romanee Grand Cru on steroids, with more structure, therefore firmness and often they are more backwards too. Although rich and mouth-coating with lovely tannin structure, this is still firmly in the Gros style of opulence and roundness. It has clear ripeness with strawberry and Kirsch like cherry liqueur richness, undergrowth nuances and a peacock's tail of flavour that seems to go on and on. A great one for the cellar. RANDALL POLLARD.
GROS F&S Echezeaux
Shelf Price $195 | Offer Price $169
Bernard Gros farms over two hectares of Echezeaux in the lieux-dits of Loachausses, below Beaux-Monts, on the higher part of the Grand Cru. Moving on to this wine from the Villages, it is an obvious step up in terms of power and class. The fruit and also complexing aromatics are more concentrated and the palate, although weightier, is more elegant and balanced, carrying the superior extract of the vintage with ease. The tannins are silky and the length is really impressive for and Echezeaux, leading me to wonder if it is not the best I have ever tasted from this estate, if not it certainly vies with the 2005. RANDALL POLLARD.
GROS F&S Richebourg
Shelf Price $695 | Offer Price $569
The Gros family own about 20% of this great Grand Cru, with Bernard responsible for .69Ha in the les Verroilles sector which is the highest and, ever so slightly, cooler and rockier part of the vineyard. This is an impressive wine of great quality and grandeur. It comes from a parcel of vines mostly panted in 1985. It is over just over 13.5% alc and it is impressively concentrated, densely packed although balanced and highly nuanced also. It is really impossible to describe how good this is and more importantly, will be in 10+ years! A truly great wine and one that is, at least in Richebourg terms, a great buy! RANDALL POLLARD.
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