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The relentlessly rising price of Billecart Rose reflects the view that this is one of the besr Roses in the country around. Its accessibility stems in part from its composition of one-third each of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and in part from fastidous winemaking. Salmon-pink, it is full of vibrant fruit flavours ranging through strawberry and citrus, its lngth not inhibited by the purity and delicacy of its structure. JAMES HALLIDAY

This is by far my favourite rose, so fresh and mouth-watering. It is made without the addition of red wine (as are most); instead it is a blend of 35 per cent pinot noir, 35 per cent pinot meunier and 30 per cent chardonnay, cold-fermented in stainless steel with cultured yeasts. The intensely flowery bouquet is followed by a palate crammed with strawberry and dried flower flavours, then a joyous finish. JAMES HALLIDAY

Pale, orange-tinged pink. Vibrant, spicy aromas of orange peel, ruby-red grapefruit and floral honey. Focused and pure, with juicy orange and tangy rhubarb flavors and a lush, velvety texture. This is weightier than previous bottlings of this cuvee, but has the usual precision and lift expected by long-time fans of this rose. Finishes with juicy citrus flavors and a late mineral jolt. JOSH RAYNOLDS

Pale pink. Aromas of dried flowers, earth and talc, with red berries in the background. Dry, restrained and sophisticated, with subtly complex pinot-dominated flavors. Tactile but quite suave. An unusually grown-up style of rose, finishing with excellent persistence. I'd be in no hurry to drink this. STEPHEN TANZER