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(a blend of 60% pinot noir, 25% chardonnay and 15% pinot Meunier ; the blend is in large proportion from 2 and 3 year old wines). Here the expressive nose is extremely yeasty and deeply pitched with delicious, vibrant and crisp middle weight flavors that are precise and clean on the long finish. This is a beautiful and relatively robust effort and I like the way that everything is delivered with grace and authority with a firm but not aggressive backbone of acidity. This should be high on the list for those who enjoy cellaring NV examples as it will easily support 10 to 15 years of aging but can also be enjoyed now. BURGHOUND

Whether or not you particularly like the unmistakeable Bollinger style, you have to respect it. Pinot noir (60 per cent) and pinot meunier (15 per cent) drive the wine, augmented by fermentation in old oak barrels. The result is a complex spicy, bready, toasty, baked apple bouquet, the palate complete and round, with an unexpected touch of delicacy, and a pleasing, dry finish. JAMES HALLIDAY