It’s got lots of dry, lemony, cutting acidity and as it’s matched to significant slings of green apple-like flavour, you have to enjoy your sparkling with a bit of mouth-puckering dare to enjoy this. There’s a gentle cashewy, honeyed creaminess but it’s far in the background, as is the wine’s leesy yeastiness. Aperitif in style, to say the least. My view is that I like the elegant, mouthwatering style of this wine more than I do its quality - but that said, it’s excellent drinking. CAMPBELL MATTINSON