The 2003 Cheval Blanc, a tiny production of 5,000 cases, was bottled early to protect its delicate style. It is a light to medium-bodied, superficial, but seductive effort offering notes of cherries, herbs, smoke, and new oak. It possesses moderate depth as well as exceptional elegance and finesse. I suspect enough of its noble terroir comes through to please this estate’s fans. Obviously, the vintage’s severe heat and drought did not benefit Cheval Blanc’s lighter, gravelly soils. This fragrant 2003 is best consumed over the next 12-14 years. ROBERT PARKER