From vines planted in 1991, Phillip Moragan's deft touch and passion for the two noble burgundy varieties of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir have resulted in a wine that speaks of the Macedon Ranges and variety, bound up in a beautifully balanced, structured and attractive wine.

Thirty percent whole bunches and 22 months in French oak. It’s not high in alcohol and while I don’t have access to the historical figures, I suspect that this isn’t entirely new for the estate.

Silken texture. Ripe, ropey tannin. Excellent cherry-plum perfume and musk-cherries-plums and spice flavors. Stalks show themselves but in an integrated fashion. Lots of mouthwatering acidity but it’s attractive and lively; it doesn’t jar. I enjoyed this wine more on opening than I did on the second day, but I still think that it will age well. It’s three years old but I suspect that it’s still sorting itself out. 93+ Points, CAMPBELL MATTINSON, www.winefront.com.au