Pretty notes of smoke, mint, licorice and peaches emerge from the 1999 Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru. This medium-bodied, refined Chardonnay possesses notable complexity in its layered, refined personality. Here, too, the wine offers superb length and finesse. This is Lot # L6905306, disgorged February, 2006. Here I slightly preferred the February, 2006 disgorgement to the July, 2006 disgorgement (91points, Lot # L6922506). Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018.

Delamotte is one of Champagne’s oldest houses. The domaine lies next-door to its sister estate, Salon, which makes one of Champagne’s most iconic wines. Both properties are run by General Manager Didier Depond, and the winemaking is overseen by chef de caves Michel Fauconnet. The wines at both properties are made separately, but in years in which Depond and Fauconnet decide to forgo making Salon, that wine is sometimes added to the Delamotte bottlings. ANTONIO GALLONI