In general the First Drop wines are picked over-ripe - and even this Adelaide Hills montepulciano weighs in at 15% alc - but of all their wines I’ve tasted so far, this montepulciano is the most convincing. It has a lot of brandied warmth but there’s a terrific sense of savioury structure too. It tastes of tar and leather, boot polish and cloves. The finish isn’t overly impressive (it stumbles a touch) but the wine’s mouthfeel, tannin and flavour are all good. Give it another year or two and it should drink well. CAMPBELL MATTINSON