An exuberant, sweet bouquet of caramelized black cherries and currants interwoven with tapenade, toasty oak, earth, and truffles soars from the glass of this dark purple-hued 2005. It is a rich, concentrated, full-bodied, impressive effort displaying well-integrated wood and unobtrusive acidity. This is the finest Gazin since the brilliant 2001. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2028. ROBERT PARKER