I’m told, reliably, that all the Melbourne wine writers love this sort of thing. So there you go. By and large Australian Tempranillo is still a bit of a challenge for me. Cherry, red fruits, spice and nutty barrel action – some youthful stink subsides, given a good airing. It’s smooth and thickly tannic, mid-weight and nutty with a particularly good mid-palate and a satisfying finish. Fleshes out and looks more complete with a decant, so there’s a bit of potential here too I’d suggest. Brightness, fun and interest – and great value. GARY WALSH, www.winefront.com.au