The wine is simply bursting with juicy aromas such as peaches, yellow plums, melon, pineapple, candied ginger and violets. In addition there is just a hint of petrol, which blends in very well with the nose. On the palate, there is an appealing, playful, lively and refreshing balance of fresh acidity, prominent sweetness and fruit extract. In addition, there are smoky and salty aromas on a long finish. A lively, playful Kabinett that weaves a cocoon of elegant sweetness like cotton candy around the ripe fruit.
92 points! Harvested almost entirely in early October at just 82 Oechsle – but with a very small portion picked on September 29 – this bottling represents an acknowledgment that residually sweet Rheinhessen Kabinett is gaining some market traction and indeed cachet, because conditions being what they were in 2016, Wagner really had no “need” to cull botrytis-tinged grapes as he had in 2015 or for his inaugural 2014 Kabinett. What he did assemble for this bottling was prematurely ripe clusters, of which there were none in the Heerkretz, so this wine comes entirely from the Höllberg. Ripe pear is garlanded in honeysuckle on a fetching nose and a polished, lusciously juicy palate featuring wafting inner-mouth perfume. Sweetness here is perfectly judged to support the fruit but no more, while nut extracts lend richness, and mouthwatering marine minerality renders the next sip irresistible before the flavors of the first have faded. To say that Wagner is getting the hang of Kabinett would be an understatement. David Schildknecht, Vinous, May 2018.
Offer ID: 12DaysOfChristmas2