This wine was a revelation when I first tasted it, most definitely the best “orange” wine I had ever tasted. It’s a strange and idiosyncratic monolith. It’s from vines planted in ’58 and ’62, naturally fermented with judicious use of skins and stems. It’s aged for almost 2 years in large barrels, and has ripe, sweet tannic structure and very concentrated fruit. There is nothing added except a little SO2 and it’s not fined or filtered. I drank it over 3 days and it got better each day.
93 points! Pinot gris matured in barrel for 18 months. Some skin contact in the early stages of the wine’s life. From 1958 and 1962 plantings. This has to be one of Germany’s most interesting, edgy wine producers. Some seriously wonderful wines too. Idiosyncratic, in the most positive sense. Powerful bouquet that runs with sandalwood, flint, preserved lemon, chilli powder, brown limes. Quite exotic, very intriguing. A statement in the palate. No ordinary gris. It’s assertive, full figured, intense, drives thick and strong through the palate but a shriek of acidity gives you freshness and a star burst finish. Charisma in spades. Mike Bennie, Wine Front, 23 Dec 2016.
Offer ID: JHLOVEGP